Travel Story – Ile de Ré
Ile de Ré is a small, enchanting island on France’s West coast, known for its authentically French, relaxed Mediterranean feel. Just twenty miles long and three miles wide, the island is a haven of tranquillity with a sunny microclimate, stunning coastline, vineyards, and a remarkable diversity of flora and fauna. Close to La Rochella airport, or less than three hours from Paris by train, Ile de Ré is easily accessible. The impressive bridge which links the island to the mainland, is the only entry point, other than by boat. If travelling by car, the island is approximately eight hours drive from the port of Calais.
The beautiful harbour towns and villages, which make up the island are lined with whitewashed buildings with terracotta tiles, painted shutters and secret walled gardens. There is a distinct colour scheme that reflects the simple way of life and natural coastline. Ile de Ré is the epitome of understated French chic, with an elegant nonchalance and low-key sophistication. The authentic and simple charm is carefully cultivated by local councils who impose restrictive rules to preserve and protect this unique island.
The salt marshes of Ile de Ré are one of its trademarks and are mainly to be found in its northern part. The marshes are home to a variety of plant life and are a source of nourishment for the birds that visit year-round. As you move around the island, somewhere between the sea, land and the sky, you can observe the traditional salt-making practices and appreciate the peaceful ambience it imbues.
D I S C O V E R
Despite its size, Ile de Ré is rooted in history, art and culture and has much to discover. Wandering the narrow, cobbled streets of the ten villages, scattered with hollyhocks, provides a unique feast of historical monuments, artisan boutiques, colourful markets and excellent restaurants. The island also has beautiful sandy beaches to explore and a variety of nautical activities are on offer to suit all tastes and abilities.
With an extensive network of cycle trails criss-crossing the island through fields and vineyards, woodland and salt marshes, cycling is undoubtedly the best way to get around the island and reconnect with nature. Bicycle shops are in most towns and can be rented for reasonable prices. There are dedicated cycle lanes alongside roads and specific routes to follow. Cycle at your own pace through open fields and leafy squares and enjoy a simpler way of life. You can hug the rugged coastline and admire the beaches or explore the salt marshes and oyster bays which can only be accessed by bike.
On the northern coast, lies the historic capital St-Martin-de-Ré, a World Heritage site with a quaint fishing port situated within fortressed walls, set around a gorgeous waterfront. Home to some of the best restaurants, bistros, bars, and ice cream, it is popular in the summer months but not to be missed. Climb the bell tower of the church for a panoramic view of the terracotta-roofed houses and watch the world go by or visit the donkeys grazing in striped shorts, a local tradition.
St-Martin-de-Ré
The nearby sailing resort of Ars-en-Ré offers a direct view of the Atlantic Ocean and has the largest harbour on the island. A unique landmark for sailors navigating at sea, the black and white steeple of the church built in the 15th century stands out from the horizon. Ars-en-Ré offers some unique shops such as Cote Jardin, an emporium of beautiful antiques and second-hand pieces for home and garden.
At Ile de Ré’s westernmost tip, the Phare des Baleines lighthouse, one of the highest in France which culminates at fifty-seven meters high, has been safely guiding ships around the island edge since it was built in 1854. Wind your way up hundreds of spiral steps and be rewarded with breath taking views that stretch back to mainland France and follow with a visit to the museum or picnic on the beach.
S T A Y
There is a range of accommodation available on the island to suit all budgets, from hotels and Air BnB properties, to family friendly campsites and cabins. Just a short cycle to a secluded beach, La Tour de Prises is ideally located in La Couarde, at the centre of the island providing easy access to everything on offer. This four-star campsite set in a preserved area has good amenities including pool, shop and washing facilities and also offers bicycle hire. Similarly, Huttopia offers camping accommodation amidst forests, vineyards and the ocean. Choose from tents, chalets or wood trailers at two different sites across the island.
For those wanting a more relaxing experience, hotels such as Le Senchel in Ars-en-Ré or Hotel de Toiras in the main town of St-Martin-de-Ré offer more luxurious accommodation. Wherever you are lucky enough to stay on the island, Ile de Ré is quietly rooted in nature and affords opportunities to explore whilst embracing a simpler way of life.
Further reading: Destination Ile de Ré
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